Susan Holaday, a good friend, and Editor/Publisher of Foodservice East, posted on FOHBOH about a recent dining experience at Boston’s L’ Espalier, titled, “The symphony of a great restaurant.”
Obviously Susan enjoyed her experience, but unknown to her and most of the patrons of great restaurants is the unbelievable ballet that is taking place in the back of the house while the symphony plays in the front.
Imagine for a moment that we are in such a restaurant. You are with 3 friends for a dinner that promises to be exquisite and exiting. There are many other tables with 2, 4, 6, or maybe 8 people, some just being seated, some leaving.
In the kitchen the Chef is accepting orders from the back waiter, and communicating them to the line staff to begin execution. Most orders for each table are for different entrees, with varying cooking times and requirements.
The Chef is simultaneously calling for the appearance of the next order to be presented for delivery.
As the warm plates are set on the plate rail, ready to receive the entrees and accompaniments, the ballet begins.

The grillardin is placing broiled meats on the proper plates, the poissonnier is doing the same with the fish, the friturier is adding fried items, the entremetier adding the vegetables, just so, and the saucier is coming with sauteed entrees. Finish with sauces; add the garnish, and place in the window for Chef’s inspection.
Many arms reaching over and around each other, movements coordinated with no talking, perfect plates delivered, - for hours on end.
This is the ballet of the kitchen. It is an amazing thing to behold these professionals at work, ( should you ever be invited), and is even more fulfilling to those of us that have the privilege to perform this unheralded dance nightly. It is what we live for.
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